For a long time, the debate over the Midwest’s finest pale ale began and ended at Bell’s Two-Hearted. It’s just so tasty — certainly better than any APA made in Wisconsin — and until Surly Furious hit the scene a couple of years ago, nothing I’d ever encountered could compete with the hoppy beauties of California, Oregon or Delaware. It wasn’t for lack of looking. Smooth, hop-heavy American Pale Ales are my favorite beers to drink, and it panged me that I couldn’t find any in the Mid-Weezy. But then, on a cool autumn evening at Yesterdaze in 2008, I sipped the pride of Munster, Indiana: Three Floyds’ Alpha King. My cheeks exploded in a rush of bitters — I knew this would be a game-changer — but for the longest time I could only find Alpha King at a single tap at a dive bar on Pearl Street. But now, faithful hopheads of La Crosse, everything is about to change. In just the past week I’ve seen bottles of AK at JB’s Speakeasy, and yesterday I picked up a six-pack at Festival Foods in Onalaska. There’s a beautiful pint poured right beside me right now, and the life of the La Crosse beer drinker has managed to get even better.

The Alpha King pours a hazy orange-brown color, practically opaque, with a two-finger head and excellent lacing. For hop lovers, the aroma is like catnip. It has a big floral nose that falls on the grapefruit side of citrus, less piney-ness than most APAs, a touch of grass, a light Nilla Wafer base and a sweet and clean nose that had me salivating before I even took a sip. When the beer finally does hit the tongue, the hops are introduced in a burst that is flavorful, but not overpowering like many Colorado pale ales. Instead, a sly malt character coats the tongue with a taste like Twinkies as hops burst against the cheeks with a quenching juicy citrus. It has a rather chewy mouthfeel and a drinkability that’s like candy to a kindergartner. The three Floyds — whoever they are — should be tremendously proud of their Alpha King. Now rejoice, hopheads of western Wisconsin, and try this beer immediately!